Home on the Range

Argentina (and neighboring Uruguay) is home to the gaucho. Gauchos are roughly the Argentinean version of a cowboy. The fertile region of Argentina (primarily west of Buenos Aires) is called the Pampas. Traditionally, this area was primarily made up of huge cattle ranches (estancias) which were worked by the gauchos who traveled from estancia to estancia on their horses looking for work. In general, gauchos had a distinct attire (see below) including “gaucho pants” (sometimes worn by women in North America) and ponchos.

Although gauchos, in the traditional sense, don’t really exist in the 21^st century, the gaucho culture is still very much alive in the Pampas and elsewhere in Argentina. In fact, there are still a few old-school gauchos to be found. I met this guy at an antique market in Buenos Aires. He came into town for the Sunday market from his ranch out west. I was so charmed by him I asked to take his picture.

As a tourist, I booked a day-trip to an Estancia to see gauchos in action and get a taste of ranch-life in Argentina. During my time at the Estancia, I got to meet two real-life gauchos. They demonstrated their skills with horses. Watching them get a horse to lay down, and then mounting it bareback was impressive!

I particularly enjoyed watching them demonstrate the use of boleadoras. Boleadoras are the “weapon” of the gaucho consisting of three stones, wrapped in leather and tied together with long leather cords. They swing these (in a very skilled way) and use them to hunt, or to take down wayward cattle.

I even got a personal lesson in how to throw boleadoras. Of course, the gaucho was able to take down a target while on horseback at a full gallop. I couldn’t even manage to hit a soccer goal post from six-feet away while standing still. I think it takes some practice. . .

Regardless, I had to buy a set for self-defense (and a cool souvenir). I figure if I’m attacked, I won’t be able to take down my attacker with them, but when I’m swinging them around, they’ll assume I’m a crazy woman and give up!

In addition to a boleadoras lesson, I tried my hand at being a gaucho: both by riding a horse (not bareback) and dressing up in the traditional outfit.

Not sure I'm gaucho material, but it was fun to spend the day with them! And, of course, after a tough day on the ranch, we were treated to more asado and vino tinto -- I love this country!

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