13 February 2011

The City of Good Wind

Buenos Aires, Argentina was originally called “Santa Maria del Buen Ayre” – named after the “good winds” that brought sailors across the Atlantic Ocean to her shores.
Unfortunately, there were no “good winds” when I was in town! The day I arrived it was nearly 110 degrees with 75% humidity. It was hot. And muggy. In fact, the President fainted in Congress that day and was sent home under doctor’s orders. I was lucky enough to arrive on the hottest day of the year. It was pure bliss to walk around with my 35-pound pack on my back looking for a room (without a/c!) for the night. The next day, it cooled off to mid-90’s but was still hot. I know my friends in Chicago, with temps below zero aren’t overly sympathetic right now. . .but trust me, I was longing for a good cool breeze!
For years I’ve heard that Buenos Aires is the “Paris of South America.” I’m not sure that this is fair to say about Buenos Aires. It is certainly modern and fast-paced with elegant architecture and a fashion-conscious population. And it does have a European feel. But it is a Latin American city and a beautiful one at that!
For example, in addition to the elegant, old stone architecture which is seemingly everywhere in BA, there are neighborhoods with very colorful buildings which add a Latin flair!  

One of the most colorful buildings is the Casa de Gobierno – the offices of the President. The building, however, is more commonly known as the Casa Rosada (Pink House). It’s an Argentinean twist on the White House!
My favorite place to explore, however, was the Recoleta Cemetary. I know it may sound creepy to spend a day wandering around with the dead, but this is no ordinary cemetery. It’s basically a city within the city of Buenos Aires. It is contained within a walled area spanning several city blocks. Within the walls are streets and alleys separating family mausoleums -- each one built in a different and more grand architectural style. It was fascinating to wander the streets of the cemetery looking at these amazing mausoleums. Here’s a taste:



One of the most famous “residents” in Recoleta is Eva Peron (made famous in the US by Madonna in the movie Evita). She was the charismatic wife of the President of Argentina in the late 1940’s and early 1950’s. For being in the public eye for such a short time, she certainly left an impression on the country. She is still talked about today – 60 years after her death. The people of Argentina either love her or hate her but no one is indifferent. Her family mausoleum always has visitors and fresh flowers are left there several times each day by loving Argentineans.

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