Pause

So I’m on the plane heading back to Chicago. Somehow, despite more than twelve hours in the air, I have managed not to think about the fact that I’m on the way to the “real world.” Then I look up at the screen in front of me and it becomes all too real.

All of a sudden I’m full of questions: What am I doing? Why did I think this was a good idea? What does this mean for my world travels?

As I calm down and think, I remember. . .I’ve agreed to do a six-month project in Chicago. That doesn’t mean that my trip is over. Suddenly, I’m flooded with relief – this is only for a few months. My trip is just on “hold.” The slow descent continues. . .

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London Calling

My flight out of Israel included a layover in London – what a great opportunity to spend some time with one of my best friends who is currently living in London.

My Personal London Tour Guide

I only had four hours to see London – but it turns out that four hours is plenty to get the total London experience!

It started with transportation. The London Underground is a London icon. Ironically, much of the “underground” is above ground (like many of the “elevated” trains in Chicago are underground).

Taxis in London are iconic. I love the traditional black Hackney Carriage – classic.

Although a more patriotic twist can be fun as well!

The classic red double-decker bus is somehow even more British with a picture of James Bond on the side!

While touring the city, we ran into some of London’s famous citizens:

Winston Churchill taking a stroll in the park

Sherlock Holmes waiting for the train

As well as some less-famous (but no less interesting) citizens:

Speaking of interesting citizens. . .I’ve heard before about why a toilet is called a “crapper” but I had never seen first-hand evidence. Awesome!

“Look kids. . .Big Ben. .. Parliament!”

The Houses of Parliament: a beautiful building!

Looking at Parliament across the River Thames

Westminster Abbey: the site of a recent wedding and burial ground of so many famous Englishmen. (Unfortunately, it’s closed to tourists on Sundays)

Before heading back to the airport, we even managed to make a phone call from one of the red phone booths that dot the streets of London!

Although I didn’t make it to Buckingham Palace to see the Queen's Guard, they did give me a send off at the airport.

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Another Brick in the Wall

Palestinian Flag

While in Israel, I wanted to spend some time in the West Bank – one of two of the Palestinian Territories (the West Bank and the Gaza Strip) which have been occupied by Israel since the war in 1967. Prior to that, these areas were occupied by Jordan and Egypt respectively, and prior to that by the British.

Palestine lies in the heart of one of the most contested parts of the world and the history of the Palestian-Israeli conflict could fill libraries – I’m not an expert on this vast topic and it’s not a topic I will attempt to cover here.

After reading about the West Bank and the Palestinian people, I wanted to see the West Bank and meet the people for myself. I headed first to the little town of Bethlehem (which I hadn’t realized was within the Palestinian Territories prior to my trip to the Middle East). Bethlehem is inside the portion of the West Bank that is under Palestinian control and, therefore, Israelis are not allowed to enter this area.

As you approach this part of the West Bank, the “separation barrier” between Israel and the West Bank comes into view in the distance.

This barrier, called a “security fence” by Israel and an “Apartheid Wall” by Palestinians, is a 430 mile barrier along and within the West Bank. Ninety percent of the barrier is a fence surrounded by trenches. The remaining ten percent (including the area around Bethlehem) is a 26 foot tall concrete wall that is more than 10 feet thick. The entire barrier includes regular observation posts manned by Israeli soldiers.

Israel built the barrier to protect Israeli civilians from Palestinian terrorists and suicide bombers (the high concrete portions are to protect Israelis from gunfire). Since construction of the barrier began, the number of terrorist attacks within Israel has significantly decreased.

The barrier creates significant issues with respect to international borders – many countries and the United Nations have commented on, and in some cases condemned this wall. One of the main reasons for the international outcry is that Israel is building much of the wall on Palestinian land. Additionally, the barrier in some places cuts through neighborhoods (and in some instances even surrounds homes on 3 sides -- see photo below) and therefore severely restricts movement within the West Bank and impacts local communities.

I understand the theory behind the barrier and the reasons why it was built. But rather than focus on the politics of it, I would rather share how much I was affected by the experience of the wall. While the impetus for the wall may have been security for Israel, the wall's location and its sheer size have made it a constant reminder to the Palestinians living near it of their ongoing conflict and lack of personal freedoms. Seeing it, standing in front of it, just being there was moving and incredibly difficult to process. It was certainly unlike anything I have lived with in my life and I found it overwhelming. It was a very emotional experience for me on several levels which explains why it has taken some time for me to share it.

Many sections of the wall on the Palestinian side, have been used for graffiti and artistic expression. In areas it has become a giant concrete canvas.

It has been called “the largest protest banner in the world.”

Seeing the enormous concrete wall was moving in and of itself. . .but seeing the emotions it inspired in others was at times both heartbreaking and inspiring.

Looking at me, you can get an idea of the size of the wall

Much of the graffiti focuses on tearing down the wall.

Much of the graffiti speaks to the Palestinian spirit.

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