28 February 2012

Raindrops Aren't Falling On My Head


Namibia got its name from the Namib Desert, a coastal desert, which runs for over 1200 miles along the Atlantic Coast of southern Africa covering the entire west coast of Namibia and going as deep as 124 miles inland in parts. In total, the Namib Desert covers over 31,000 square miles of land in Namibia.

The Namib is the oldest desert in the world having had arid conditions for over 55 million years. Today, the western parts of the Namib have less than 2mm of rain per year. Even the “wettest” portions of the desert average less than 200mm (7.9 inches) annually.


The cool air of the Atlantic, mixed with warm air over the desert, frequently creates a thick fog -- the coastal regions have over 180 days of thick fog coverage per year. The strong winds that bring the fog over the desert, also create huge sand dunes in the “sand sea” which runs along the coast.


The dunes created are among the tallest in the world – some up to 1000 feet high!

I climbed 560 feet to the top of one of the dunes to watch the sunrise. It was a beautiful sight, but climbing in sand isn’t the easiest!


The temperatures in the Namib can be extreme. Along the coast, temperatures remain relatively stable, usually falling between 48-68°. Inland, however, the daytime temps can top 113° (at the same time, the sand temperature can top 160°!) and can fall below freezing during the night.


Surprisingly, the tiny amount of annual rainfall, along with the frequent fog being blown in from the Atlantic, sustains both plant and animal life in the Namib, all of which have adapted to live with very little water.

An Aloe Plant

One bush called “ostrich salad” can survive up to five years with no water, lying dormant until the rains come. The flowers on this bush close up when there is no water to have as little surface area as possible to avoid any evaporation.

However, when even one small drop of water hits the plant, it unfolds each leaf until it is completely open and ready for more moisture.

The acacia tree is another desert success story. Rather than many shallow roots, this tree develops one long “tap root” which grows incredibly deep seeking water below the surface. These roots average about 150 feet, but have been found up to 220 feet below the surface! As a result, it’s not uncommon to see a completely dry landscape, with one green acacia tree right in the middle.


Even when the land looks completely barren, there are seeds lingering below the surface just waiting for the next rain to fall. We saw evidence of this in one inland area of the desert. In 2009 there was 12mm of rain. In 2010, just 2mm fell. However, in 2011, 300mm fell! In 2011, lush green grasses sprouted up all over the desert floor. Prior to last year, this area hadn’t seen green grass since 1974! When we visited in 2012, the ground was once again dry, but evidence of the unusually tall grasses remained.

Photo from 2010 with very little ground cover.
Photo taken in 2012 with tall grasses that grew in 2011.
Shockingly a large number of animals live in the Namib as well. Most are spiders and insects, such as this tiny fellow:

The Armored Cricket -- Bigger than my big toe!
But some larger bird and mammal species have adapted to desert life as well.

Ostriches are Completely at Home in the Desert

The oryx, the national animal of Namibia, have adapted to raise their body temperature during the hot days.
These oryx are seeking shelter from the mid-day sun.

Vultures feeding on an animal that didn’t make it through the hot day.

Feral horses surviving on very little food and water.
Although we did see some plants and animals, what we didn’t see many of were humans.


The Namib Desert is almost completely uninhabited by people which helps to account for the low population density in Namibia. The landscape is just a bit too barren and unforgiving for easy settlement. But it’s certainly an incredible place to visit!

21 February 2012

Land of Open Spaces


The Republic of Namibia is a vast, beautiful country. Those who named the country obviously recognized this since “Namibia” means “land of open spaces” in the local Nama language.  

I was fortunate enough to spend two weeks traveling (and camping) in Namibia and enjoying many of these wide open places for myself! 

From the dryness of the desert region: 


To the massive dried up salt lake that gave Etosha National Park its name ("Great White Place"):



Namibia is one of the youngest countries in the world– only gaining its independence from South Africa in March 1990 (prior to that time, it was known as "Southwest Africa"). Due to rich mineral and diamond deposits, the GDP of Namibia is one of the highest of all sub-Saharan countries, although sadly, the vast majority of the population still lives below the poverty line. On a more positive note, the literacy rate is 83% -- one of the highest in Africa. 

As illustrated in my last blog entry, Namibia is blessed with one of the largest animal congregations on the planet. Interestingly, in contrast to the high animal population, Namibia is the second least densely populated country on the planet (after Mongolia). This lack of people accounts for the beautiful wide open spaces!

One of my favorite spots was Fish River Canyon -- the second biggest canyon in the world (after the Grand Canyon in Arizona): 

Although the beauty of the highest sand dunes in the world cannot be denied:

 
I have always loved being outdoors and far from “civilization” and camping in Namibia affords many such opportunities. Here are the views from my two favorite campsites on this trip:


Namibia is a country with a fascinating history, rich cultures, and interesting people, but it is the natural beauty of this country that makes me want to come back!

11 February 2012

An Afternoon Drive in the Park

Etosha National Park in northern Namibia is a beautiful place for a drive.


A drive through Etosha is just like a Sunday drive through any other park. Well, except for a few things. . .

The roads are frequently blocked:





We certainly weren't the only ones in the park that day. . .

Black Rhino

Impala with Three Springbok

Wildebeests
Oryx -- the National Animal of Namibia
Spotted Hyenas
Zebras
Adult Male Lion

05 February 2012

We Are the Champions

I was recently in the town of Stellenbosch, South Africa. When I saw a pamphlet with a self-guided historical walking tour of the town in the tourism office, I had to get it. The walking tour was nice – lots of interesting and historical buildings.

Cape Dutch-style Home
Girls Boarding School

Beautiful Seminary
However, what caught my eye on the brochure was a mention of “National Champion Trees.” What? A tree? A national champion of what? Did these trees win a foot race or participate in a team sport?  An academic contest? I was delighted by the concept of a tree as a champion of something!

There are five national champion trees in Stellenbosch. I had to check out these trees for myself!
The first was a Norfolk Island pine (native to Norfolk Isles in the Pacific, not Africa). This pine tree is huge!


This is the tallest Norfolk Island pine in South Africa. It was planted in 1826 by the wife of the last Chief Magistrate of Stellenbosch.  


The second trees were English Oak trees, native to Europe and northern Africa.

The streets of Stellenbosch were lined with English Oak trees in the 1680s. However, due to huge fires in 1710, 1763, and 1875, very few of these trees survived. These two oak trees on Ryneveld Street were planted in 1812 and show what the streets must have looked like prior to the fires. Only 5 of these oak trees remain.



According to the brochure, “Proclamation as a national champion tree under the Forest Act is the highest degree of protection for a tree. This status is awarded to trees of exceptional age, size, historical, cultural, or economic value, or a combination of these factors.” This program falls under the Department of Water Affairs and Forestry. Although tree protection programs exist in a number of countries, this is the first in Africa.


The next National Champion is a River Red Gum tree from Australia. This is the most widely distributed species of eucalyptus tree. This particular tree has a circumference of nearly 32 feet, a height of 125 meters, and a crown spread of 131 feet. That makes this tree the “biggest” of the National Champions.


Champion four is also a River Red Gum tree – this big fellow was planted in 1880 and was selected as a National Champion because it is a “prominent tree providing shade for an entire informal market.” The market still exists today and people gather for shade under this gum tree!