25 July 2012

All in the Family


In the westernmost part of Tanzania, nestled between the shore of Lake Tanganyika and the crest of the Great Rift Valley, lies Gombe National Park.

Lake Tanganyika, the world’s 2nd deepest lake, which contains 18% of the world’s fresh water!
Hiking in the forest, tree-covered hills, and the 83 foot Kakombe Waterfall are all beautiful and all valid reasons to make a trip to this 32.5 square mile park.



But the reasons I’ve dreamed of a trip to Gombe since I was a small girl, are smaller, darker, and a lot more mobile:


Gombe National Park is not only home to 600 species of trees and shrubs, but also home to 110 chimpanzees.

These chimps, along with their ancestors, have been the subject of the longest study of any wildlife population in the world. In July 1960, Jane Goodall, with very little formal training, was sent to Gombe National Park to study chimpanzees. A one or two year study was planned to study these animals, who share 98.7% of human genetic material. That one year study turned into 52 years and is still ongoing!


Chimpanzees are great apes, along with gorillas, orangutans, bonobos, and humans. In 1900, there were over 2 million chimpanzees in Africa. Today there are less than 150,000. Fortunately, the chimpanzees of Gombe have been protected since 1943.

Chimpanzees have brown eyes and long black hair covering all of their body except the face, ears, fingers, and toes. They walk on all fours, but, when standing fully erect, are up to 4 ½ feet tall and males can weigh up to 110 pounds. Despite their smaller size, chimpanzees are three times stronger than their cousins, human beings.

Babies are born with light pink skin and a tuft of white hair where a tail would be (apes have no tails). Their pink skin darkens as they mature and the white tuft disappears by 8 years old.


As with many humans, chimpanzee hair can show their age – as they get older, the hair changes to brown or gray and baldness occurs in later years. Most chimps live to 30 but they can live up to 50 years or more. Females can even give birth into their late 40’s.

Chimpanzees, like most primates, interact with each other by grooming. Grooming does help to clean their coat and remove parasites, but more importantly, it serves to calm and relax individuals and to bond the community.


Through the chimpanzee studies at Gombe, researchers have learned that chimps are tool-makers (a skill previously attributed only to humans) and meat eaters. Chimpanzees hunt as a group, share food, and communicate with each other through punching, kissing, even embracing!

Chimpanzees feed for 6 hours per day, about 60% of which is fruit. However, they have been observed hunting as a group – surrounding their prey and blocking all escape routes. In fact, at Gombe, chimpanzees have a successful hunt rate of 40% with colobus monkeys and 67% with bush pigs (two of their favorite prey). Interestingly, lions have a success rate of only 20% -- it is the ability to reason and determine the probability of success before undertaking a hunt that gives chimpanzees their success.


For primate lovers, Gombe isn’t home only to chimpanzees. These forests also house blue monkeys, red-tailed monkeys, red colobus, and olive baboons.



In fact, in addition to the long-running chimpanzee study, olive baboons have been studied at Gombe since 1967.

While I am always thrilled to see monkeys, walking through the jungle and discovering our closest relatives just a few feet away, was awe-inspiring. I'm so thankful to have had the opportunity to spend a few hours with several of the family groups in Gombe!

The sign when you enter Gombe National Park says “Care, conserve, and protect for future generations.”

I sincerely hope that future generations of humans and chimpanzees have the opportunity to share a quite moment looking directly into the eyes of their extended family.

22 July 2012

Another Journey


Although this blog is usually about my journey, for much of my time in Africa, I had a travel companion so I thought I’d share some highlights of his journey as well!

It started in Cape Town, South Africa -- taking in the views of the city, and the Atlantic Ocean:



When in South Africa, you have to visit the wineries!

Travel by quadbike is much more fun than by bus!



Then again, who needs motorized transport? Why not swim between countries?

Waving from Namibia After Swimming from South Africa

Speaking of borders, where else can you straddle two oceans?

Left Foot in the Atlantic Ocean, Right Foot in the Indian Ocean!
Sometimes you get wet on purpose, other times, it can’t be avoided!

Swimming in the Indian Ocean
Getting Soaked at Victoria Falls

Every journey involves both hard work and relaxation time.

Learning to Make Flour in Lesotho

Relaxing in Mozambique
No trip to Africa would be complete without going on Safari.


After seeing Africa from the ground, why not hike up to the highest point and take in the views from above?


But some of the best times are the quiet ones.

Enjoying a Birthday Drink on the Zambezi River

19 July 2012

Leaving A Mark



Ever seen the movie, The Gods Must Be Crazy? It’s a South African film, released in 1980, about a man from an African hunting-gathering tribe who meets modern, western culture in the form of a Coke bottle. The star of the film, N!xau, is from the San tribe in southern Africa.


The San are the indigenous people of Southern African whose territory once spanned South Africa, Zimbabwe, Lesotho, Mozambique, Swaziland, Botswana, Namibia, and Angola. They are often referred to as the “Bushmen” (although that word has negative connotations). The San are often credited by linguists with the creation of language! Traditionally (evidence goes as far back as 30,000 years ago), the San were hunters and gatherers and roamed freely throughout southern Africa. Although as the area was more and more modernized, their lifestyle was less and less possible.

The San traditionally hunted various antelope and buffalo using poison arrows and spears. After the animal was killed, the San offered thanks for the animal’s spirit. Although this lifestyle is rarely practiced anymore, the San left information on how they lived their life in the form of rock paintings.

Painting from Nsangwini, Swaziland

The paintings they left behind give us a snapshot of how the San lived and hunted. And the paintings remain in the place where they were created -- so we are able to see their inspiration.

Mountains near Nsangwini Cave Paintings

Rock Overhang in Lipohofung, Lesotho With Cave Paintings

The San painted in various colors: red, yellow, brown, black, and ochre.

Lipohofung, Lesotho

Motopos, Zimbabwe

Spitzkoppe, Namibia

Nsangwini, Swaziland

Nsangwini, Swaziland

The paints were created from silica, powdered, quartz, clays, and various minerals, ground into powders and mixed with animal fat to form an adhesive paste. Some colors were more adhesive than others – the most adhesive being the red pigment, made from iron oxides. The iron oxides were “mined” by the San starting 45,000 years ago and used for cave painting as well as makeup and other decorative uses.

San Mining Site Near Mbabane, Swaziland
These paintings are believed to have a variety of meanings. For example, to show hunting locations and local wildlife:

Rhino in Namibia

Eland in Lesotho

Lions in Zimbabwe

Paintings show hunting parties:

Zimbabwe

Swaziland

San paintings also show trance dances, where healers force themselves into a trance in order to connect with the spirit world. While in a trance, the healers often visions and take on attributes of animals. These visions are sometimes portrayed in the rock paintings.

Trance Dance in Lesotho

Trance Dance in Swaziland



Rock paintings also show us how the San lost their territory. The San lived in family groups of 25-35 people. Each of these groups roamed a territory of up to 350 square miles. However, once Bantu (taller, darker skinned people from central Africa) cattle farmers moved into Southern Africa, they wanted the land for cattle grazing. Fights over land caused battles between the San (lighter skinned) and the Bantu. The arrival of the Bantu with their cattle and subsequent skirmishes are memorialized in San cave paintings.Interestingly, in various countries, the San are portrayed in red, and the Bantu in black. 


Over the last 150 years, the San population has decreased considerably, primarily through war or interbreeding. Sadly, their population also decreased due to hunting. In the late 1800's and early 1900's, many Europeans were traveling to southern Africa on game hunting trips. I was appalled to learn that Europeans could purchase permits to hunt the San in the same way they would buy a permit to hunt an elephant. The local farming population was happy to have found an easy way to both make money and eliminate their competition for land. I can never truly grasp how humans can do this to each other.

Today, fewer than 100,000 San remain, the majority of which are on government settlements in Botswana and Namibia. The San, and their role, have been the subject of ongoing political debates and court cases in these countries. In 2006, the San in Botswana won a historic ruling granting them the right to live nomadically and hunt in the Central Kalahari Game Reserve. However, their relocation back to their traditional homeland has not been smooth. 

Sadly, the San are one of many examples of the traditional world and the modern world trying to figure out how to coexist. I truly hope that they succeed.