I borrowed the title of my blog from my all-time favorite song (Joni Mitchell is amazing). If you don't know it, give it a listen. Why this title? I thought it was a good way to sum up why I'm taking this trip. I want to experience life from both sides (in many ways).
17 June 2011
14 June 2011
¡Cheers!
Peru’s national drink is a type of brandy called Pisco.
Pisco was originally developed in the 1550’s by the Spanish (who settled in southern Peru). They wanted a cheaper alternative to the brandy being imported from Spain. They brought grapes from the Canary Islands and planted them along the coast of Peru. One of the sites where these grapes were most successfully grown was a port-town called Pisco. The drink produced here became popular with sailors (since it was strong and quickly had an effect) who called this spirit “Pisco” after the port where they purchased it. In fact, pisco was one of the most common alcoholic beverages on sailing ships during the 1700’s and 1800’s until rum (with a “softer flavor”) became more commonly available.
While in Ica, Peru (near Pisco), I had the opportunity to visit several pisco bodegas to see how it is made. Like wine, pisco comes from grapes.
The grapes are then pressed. This is an actual press still used by several families in Ica.
However, after pressing the grapes, instead of aging them (as is done with wine), the grapes are fermented and immediately distilled in large copper pot stills. After the distilling process, the alcohol is stored in traditional conical clay pottery -- shaped in this manner to easily allow them to be buried for safer storage.
Pisco can be enjoyed straight (a bit too strong for me) or in mixed drinks – the most popular of which is the Pisco Sour (very tasty and highly recommended!).
Today, Pisco is produced in the winemaking regions of both Peru and Chile. (It is believed that after Chile occupied southern Peru in the late 1800’s the pisco-making tradition spread to that country.) Unfortunately, this has been the cause of many legal disputes between the two countries.
Peru maintains that only Peruvian manufacturers can use the term “pisco” -- similar to the regulation that true “champagne” can only come from a certain region of France. They believe that the Chilean produced version is another type of spirit and should be labeled as such.
Historical documents (from the U.S. National Archives) have shown that until at least 1864, pisco referred only to a spirit from Peru. Chilean pisco can only be traced as far back as 1874. Peruvian pisco is still produced using traditional methods (due to government regulations to that effect). Chile, however, has commercialized the industry and today produces 50 times more pisco than Peru.
Both nations have established decrees, laws, and treaties in attempts to claim ownership of the name “pisco.” In 1936, Chile went so far as to change the name of the town of Union in northern Chile to “Pisco” in an attempt to establish geographical origin for the name! And in the 1960’s in Peru, a law was passed making it illegal to import or sell Chilean pisco!
Personally, I’ll leave the decision to the courts. But I would recommend trying pisco – it’s exported to many other countries so you should be able to find it outside of South America. But, before you give it a try, you might want to check the label to see where it was produced!
Cheers!
11 June 2011
Vote Early, Vote Often
That’s the fun voting catch-phrase that’s been attributed to my home town: Chicago. Supposedly because of our corrupt politicians? I have to admit (and to those who know me well this won’t be a big surprise) that I don’t devote too much energy to elections and politics at home. But, I happen to be in Peru during their presidential elections and it’s tough to miss what's going on -- I’ve found the entire process fascinating.
The Peruvian General Elections were held on April 10, 2011, the day before I came to Peru. There were more than 10 candidates in this election and the law states that a candidate must win more than 50% of the vote to be elected president. Since that didn’t happen in April, the top two candidates were to have a run-off on June 5.
What fascinated me was how Peruvians support their candidates. They don’t just put a sign in the yard or a bumper sticker on the car, in some parts of the country, they actually paint their candidate’s name on their home. That’s commitment.
There are even ads for candidates on the sides of mountains:
So as I rode on buses through northern Peru back in April, I noticed what a big deal it was and decided to learn more about the process. It turns out elections in Peru are quite different from elections in the United States.
First, voting is mandatory for all Peruvians between the ages of 18 and 70. If they don’t vote, they are fined -- the amount of the fine is based on where they live. The fines aren’t huge by US standards (between $6 and $30 – more for Peruvians living abroad) but make a real difference for many Peruvians. Consequently, in the last presidential election, about 88% of Peruvians voted (compared to about 60% in the United States).
Elections are always held on Sundays to make voting easier for many people. Interestingly, they don’t have absentee ballots, all votes must be cast in person on election day. For Peruvians living abroad, this can be challenging. There are polling stations in many big cities but those living outside of big cities must travel to the nearest polling station. For example, there is a polling station on the north side of Chicago which serves all of Illinois, Wisconsin, Iowa, Indiana, and Missouri. That can be more than 15 hours of driving for some people! And in the western United States, the polling station in Salt Lake City, Utah serves all of Utah, Idaho, and Montana!
The most fascinating fact for me is that it is illegal to sell alcohol in stores or restaurants for the two days before the election and the day of the election throughout Peru. They want to ensure that everyone votes with a clear head and that tempers are kept in control on election day. While I understand the reasons for this law, I can’t imagine a similar law in the United States! Forget riots on election day, there would be riots when people couldn’t order a drink!
Then, several days before the election, I accidentally found myself in the middle of it all when I was having dinner. I was eating on a balcony overlooking the main plaza when sirens and lots of vehicles approached. Then a crowd gathered.
Then signs started appearing for one of the candidates.
I asked my waiter if one of the candidates was staying in the hotel attached to my restaurant. He not only confirmed that he was, but even told me his room number! (I’m pretty sure security wouldn’t let that happen in the US) The crowd started cheering and there he was standing in the bed of a pick-up truck just 10 feet below me!
And while I’m not a political person, I was excited to see the next President of Peru up close and personal! Viva Peru!
07 June 2011
Patience is a Virtue!
I came to South America with a very basic “tourist” knowledge of the Spanish language. I knew how to say “hi” and “good-bye” as well as “yes” and “no” (an easy one since it’s the same word) and “please” and “thank you.”
I also knew the essentials: “where’s the bathroom?” “check, please!”, “beach,” “wine,” “swimming pool,” and “beer.” Beyond that, I could say some other words, but I was far from making proper sentences!
In the past few months in South America, I’m happy to say that I’ve come a long way. I can ask lots of questions and nearly always understand the answers! I can even sometimes have conversations. Progress!
I have so much appreciation for what the (very patient) people of South America have had to put up with! I’m constantly asking people to repeat themselves, usually “mas despacio, por favor” (slower, please). And they usually do. And with a smile no less! And I’ve never felt that anyone has looked at me like I’m an idiot because I can’t speak their language.
I’m sad to say that experiences in the United States are often different. Many Americans get completely frustrated and impatient when faced with a non-English-speaker fumbling their way through our language. Eye rolls are sometimes involved as is repeating the sentence over-and-over while increasing the volume each time.
My point? I have two:
First, I have to send out a HUGE thank you to the people of South America. They have patiently helped me to get where I am and have tolerated my conversations despite them being completely devoid of any verbs in the past-tense. (I just can’t seem to master anything but present tense)
And secondly, I hope that my fellow Americans will lend a hand to travelers in the United States trying to master English. Don't assume that someone saying "I go from New York last week" is an idiot -- give them the benefit of the doubt and speak a little slower. And do it with a smile!
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