¡Cheers!

Peru’s national drink is a type of brandy called Pisco.

Pisco was originally developed in the 1550’s by the Spanish (who settled in southern Peru). They wanted a cheaper alternative to the brandy being imported from Spain. They brought grapes from the Canary Islands and planted them along the coast of Peru. One of the sites where these grapes were most successfully grown was a port-town called Pisco. The drink produced here became popular with sailors (since it was strong and quickly had an effect) who called this spirit “Pisco” after the port where they purchased it.  In fact, pisco was one of the most common alcoholic beverages on sailing ships during the 1700’s and 1800’s until rum (with a “softer flavor”) became more commonly available.

While in Ica, Peru (near Pisco), I had the opportunity to visit several pisco bodegas to see how it is made. Like wine, pisco comes from grapes.

The grapes are then pressed. This is an actual press still used by several families in Ica.

However, after pressing the grapes, instead of aging them (as is done with wine), the grapes are fermented and immediately distilled in large copper pot stills. After the distilling process, the alcohol is stored in traditional conical clay pottery -- shaped in this manner to easily allow them to be buried for safer storage.

Pisco can be enjoyed straight (a bit too strong for me) or in mixed drinks – the most popular of which is the Pisco Sour (very tasty and highly recommended!).

Today, Pisco is produced in the winemaking regions of both Peru and Chile. (It is believed that after Chile occupied southern Peru in the late 1800’s the pisco-making tradition spread to that country.) Unfortunately, this has been the cause of many legal disputes between the two countries.

Peru maintains that only Peruvian manufacturers can use the term “pisco” -- similar to the regulation that true “champagne” can only come from a certain region of France. They believe that the Chilean produced version is another type of spirit and should be labeled as such.

Historical documents (from the U.S. National Archives) have shown that until at least 1864, pisco referred only to a spirit from Peru. Chilean pisco can only be traced as far back as 1874. Peruvian pisco is still produced using traditional methods (due to government regulations to that effect). Chile, however, has commercialized the industry and today produces 50 times more pisco than Peru.

Both nations have established decrees, laws, and treaties in attempts to claim ownership of the name “pisco.” In 1936, Chile went so far as to change the name of the town of Union in northern Chile to “Pisco” in an attempt to establish geographical origin for the name! And in the 1960’s in Peru, a law was passed making it illegal to import or sell Chilean pisco!

Personally, I’ll leave the decision to the courts. But I would recommend trying pisco – it’s exported to many other countries so you should be able to find it outside of South America. But, before you give it a try, you might want to check the label to see where it was produced! 

Cheers!

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