English has served me well in my southern African travels so far. Although a variety of African languages are spoken, most people speak English, and most government and street signs are in English. Not so in Mozambique –a former Portuguese colony where Portuguese is the language of the land.
The language wasn’t the only change I noticed. Mozambique’s attitude toward alcohol is a bit more lax than other countries in Southern Africa.
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| Sidewalk “liquor store” |
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| Whiskey in a bag? For only $.35! |
Unfortunately, unlike Swaziland, who negotiated a peaceful independence from Britain, Mozambique (formerly Portuguese East Africa) had to fight for theirs. The first call for independence came in 1960 when Portuguese troops opened fire on a peaceful demonstration. In 1964, full war broke out and continued until 1975 when Portugal withdrew and the People’s Republic of Mozambique was born. (Sadly, the peace didn’t last long as rebels caused the fighting to continue for nearly 20 more years)
The new government was led by a commander from the war, Samora Machel. Machel is a very revered figure in Mozambique today – his picture is on all of the money and statutes of him are in most towns of any size.
When independence was gained, the socialist government renamed the capital (Maputo) and the streets of the capital were renamed to honor socialist and communist leaders. It was interesting to walk the streets of Maputo and see the street names. Many were immediately recognizable, but others prompted impromptu history lessons.
But history isn’t the reason most people come to Mozambique.
Mozambique has long been a tropical vacationland for South Africans. Only recently has the rest of the world started to discover the beautiful coast and the warm Indian Ocean beaches.
The beaches are great for swimming:
But to the locals, the water is a mode of transport and a source of food.
While strolling through the small towns I learned that Mozambicans are nothing if not practical:
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| One way to have a hot water heater without electricity! |
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| Many of the palm trees have a handmade “ladder” in the trunk – easier to get the coconuts! |
Unfortunately, in addition to being known for great beaches, Mozambique has a reputation for corruption. I’m sad to say that I saw many examples of this first-hand with many locals trying (and some succeeding) to rip me off. But the average Mozambican didn’t invent the concept of corruption, he learned it. I also saw the Mozambican police demanding bribes from locals and even had one policeman demand (although subtly) a bribe from me. The corruption is blatant and rampant here which sadly, isn’t helping this country to get back on its feet.
Mozambique felt like a different world from the other countries I’ve visited in Southern Africa – different language, different customs, and noticeably less developed (due to 30 years of war). Travel here is certainly a bit of a challenge, but Mozambique has a beauty all her own.
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