Lost. . .and Found

Until about 500 years ago, the slopes of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta mountains were populated by the Tayrona people. They were an advanced Pre-Colombian population with at least 300 cities in the area (discovered thus far) and a complex social and political organization with advanced engineering.

The capital city housed between 2000 and 4000 people and was spread across a large area on a mountain slope. The city itself was comprised of nearly 200 stone terraces on which straw houses and other structures were built. These terraces were connected by stone-slab paths and stairways. And over 1250 stone steps connected the center of the city with the river far below.

In 1499, the Tayrona culture was the first indigenous culture encountered by the Spanish when they arrived in South America. Sadly, after 75 years of war, the Tayrona culture was decimated. Those remaining opted to abandon their cities and escape up into the mountains to avoid extinction. After their departure, their cities fell into ruin and were buried by the fast-growing jungle foliage.  . .

Then, in the mid 1970’s, a family of grave-robbers happened upon this once grand capital city. News quickly spread of the discovery of an ancient abandoned city and archeologists moved in. Eventually so many people were digging up the ruins that the Colombian army moved in to protect one of the largest pre-Colombian towns ever discovered in the Americas. In 1982, the Ciudad Perdida (“Lost City”) was opened to the public and many of the treasures unearthed by archeologists were put on display at museums throughout Colombia.

Which brings us to 2011. . .seeing the Lost City involves five days of trekking over 25 miles. There’s lots of uphill, lots of bugs, plenty of rain which brings plenty of mud. What could be better? To be fair, there are also rivers and vines, and swimming holes and plenty of stunning scenery! Here are some of the scenes from my trip. . .

Our mountain views on the way to start the trek:

The guides loading up one of the donkeys with food for our journey:

One of our kitchens during the trek:

And one of our "bedrooms." My first time spending an entire night in a hammock. It can be very comfortable although it can also be quite cold. And having mosquito netting laying on your face is a bit disconcerting!

One of the many mud-soaked trails we needed to navigate (and accidentally slide down!):

The riverside snacks we enjoyed each day:

Jungle views, including one of the many swimming holes:

A local village and some of the locals (the Kogi people) we met along the way:

And then, three days later, we arrived at the bottom of 1250 uneven, moss-covered stone steps. What a daunting thing to look up and see. . .

And then, finally, we arrived at the Lost City. Or rather, the terraces which are all that remain of the Lost City!

Although the Tayrona people no longer live in this city, the Colombian Army still does. These guys each have a three-month tour protecting this area of the jungle and the ruins. They are nice kids who appreciate a package of cookies – likely not something they can get easily in the jungle!

I briefly contemplated a career in the Colombian army. ..but I’m not sure the uniform is my best look?

Overall, this trip reinforced the old saying that life is about the journey, not the destination. I enjoyed the trips to and from the ruins more than the ruins themselves. Every day was new and different. Although the days and nights weren’t comfortable, they were such fun and so rewarding. I’m so thankful that I experienced the thrill of finding the lost city!

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