Ubuntu

The African word “ubuntu” refers to the belief that “I am who I am because of who we all are.” We are all part of something bigger than ourselves and we could not be individuals without the influences of the larger group.  We all live together and must respect each other.

One quintessential example of ubuntu is Nelson Mandela.

One cannot learn about apartheid in South Africa without also learning a great deal about Nelson Mandela and his role in putting an end to apartheid and helping South Africa to move forward once apartheid had ended.

(Nelson) Rolihlahla Mandela was born in Transkei, South Africa on July 18, 1918. His father was a chief in the Tembu tribe and leader of the town of Mvezo. Rolihlahla (which means “troublemaker”) was the first member of his family to attend a school. While in school, his teacher gave him his English name, Nelson.

Nelson went to the university and eventually received his law degree. Thereafter he and a partner opened the first black law firm in South Africa providing free or low-cost counsel to many black people. After the 1948 National Party victory and subsequent apartheid policies, Mandela became politically active as a member of the African National Congress (ANC), resisting these policies. In 1960, the ANC was banned as a “terrorist organization” and in 1961, Mandela helped to create a new militant branch of the ANC. As leader of this new wing of the ANC, Mandela organized sabotage campaigns about government and military targets.

In the early 1960’s, Mandela was arrested and charged with sabotage and treason. At the trial, Mandela described this as a last-resort, used only after it became obvious that years of non-violent protests were achieving no progress.

Mandela during his trial: "During my lifetime I have dedicated myself to the struggle of the African people. I have fought against white domination, and I have fought against black domination. I have cherished the ideal of a democratic and free society in which all persons live together in harmony and with equal opportunities. It is an ideal which I hope to live for and to achieve. But if needs be, it is an ideal for which I am prepared to die.”

In 1964, Mandela was sentenced to life in prison. 

Mandela was imprisoned on Robben Island (a prison on an island off the coast of Cape Town) for eighteen of his twenty-seven years in prison.

Robben Island

Entrance to the Prison

Prisoners on Robben Island were separated along apartheid lines by race with black prisoners receiving fewer privileges (rations, clothes, etc.) than colored and Asian prisoners. No white prisoners were living in Robben Island prison. Days were spent working hard labor in a lime quarry on the island.

Limestone Quarry on Robben Island

Mandela, as a political prisoner, received even fewer privileges, including only one visitor and one letter every six months.

Mandela's Prison Cell

The Cell's Only Furnishings in the Early Years

During his years in prison, Mandela’s reputation, both nationally and internationally, continued to grow. He was regarded as the most significant black leader in South Africa. Eventually a campaign to free Mandela became the focus of international opposition to apartheid. Robben Island became known as “Mandela University” as he worked to educate other political prisoners on resistance and human rights.

Mandela consistently refused to compromise his political position to obtain his freedom. In 1985, he was offered a release if he would publically condemn violence as a means to further political objectives. His daughter publically read his refusal in which he stated that violence was the responsibility of the apartheid government and that with true democracy, violence would not be necessary. He also stated that only a free man can negotiate, “a prisoner cannot enter into contracts.”

“For to be free is not only to cast off one’s chains,  but to live in a way that respects and enhances the freedom of others.”

By 1990, change was coming to South Africa. Mandela was released from prison when President de Klerk reversed the ban on the ANC and released all political prisoners. Mandela’s release was broadcast live around the world.

Upon his release, Mandela made a speech to the nation saying that his main focus was to bring peace to the black majority in South Africa and making a commitment to reconciliation with the country’s white minority. However he also stated that the factors that made violent resistance necessary in the 1960’s still existed and he hoped for a climate conducive to a negotiated settlement would soon exist.

His hopes were realized when negotiations between the government and the ANC began. Nelson Mandela and President F.W. de Klerk were largely responsible for these negotiations to end apartheid. This earned them both the Nobel Peace Prize in 1993 “for their work for the peaceful termination of the apartheid regime, and for laying the foundations for a new democratic South Africa.”

In 1994, Mandela became the first President of South Africa under the new constitution. As president, Mandela was known for giving priority to reconciliation between the people of South Africa and focusing on moving forward on a unified nation while introducing policies aimed at combating poverty and inequality.

What inspires me about Mandela is his belief in forgiveness and his commitment to the greater good. I can’t think that it is easy to spend twenty-seven years in prison and come out ready to forgive and move forward with those who put you in prison. But Mandela consistently preached tolerance, forgiveness, and hope. I believe that South Africa is lucky to have had such a dynamic leader at that time whose message was received by so many thus avoiding violence or retribution. One of my favorite quotes from Mandela: “I am what I am both as a result of people who respected me and helped me, and of those who did not respect me and treated me badly.”

In 1999, Mandela did not run for reelection and retired from politics but went on to become an advocate for a number of social and human rights organizations.

Statue of Nelson Mandela in Nobel Square in Cape Town

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The Elephant in the Room

It’s easy to visit South Africa and enjoy the beautiful scenery and all of the fun things the country has to offer. However, it’s difficult for me to do so without also learning about the Apartheid era and its aftermath. Although the country has changed dramatically since the end of Apartheid (in 1994), the effects and reminders of Apartheid linger on both the people and the places.

After World War II, concerns about increased racial integration started to arise in South Africa. An official commission found that integration would bring about “a loss of personality” for all racial groups. With this in mind, in the 1948 general elections, the National Party ran (and won) on a platform of apartheid (a system that separates people according to race). They argued that South Africa was a diverse nation comprised of four racial groups:

-          White (persons of pure European descent);

-          Black (African natives – representing 70% of the population at the time);

-          Asian (primarily Indians, Chinese, and Indonesians – the majority came to South Africa in the slave trade); and

-          Colored (those whose heritage is a mix of any of the above groups).

When the National Party came to power, they quickly began to pass apartheid laws. All people were required to carry an identity card stating of which race they were a member. Mixed marriages were declared illegal as was sexual relations between races. Laws were also passed to ensure that each racial group lived separately – each group was allotted a different geographical area. This often required moving massive groups of people as many mixed races at the time were living side by side. In 1953, a law was passed dictating that all races should have separate amenities: buses, hospitals, beaches, etc. 

Of course, the quality of services differed for each racial group with whites receiving the best services and blacks receiving the worst – with Asian and Colored services in between.

Education was segregated with black school systems designed to prepare their students "for a life as a laborer." The education of each black child was allocated merely one-fifteenth the funding dedicated to education for a white child. The belief was that you shouldn’t “educate black people to levels which they cannot achieve.” Separate universities were also created for black, Asian, colored, and white students.

Initially, only the white race was allowed to vote. However, in the early 80’s, the colored and Asian groups were given limited voting rights.

Not surprisingly, these new public policies sparked resistance.  With this resistance (some peaceful, some armed), came a new set of laws outlawing certain organizations and public gatherings. Many political prisoners who were seen as “terrorists” were jailed.

To further segregate the different races, ten distinct “homelands” were created for black South Africans. Each homeland represented a different ethnic background. Ostensibly, the homelands were created to be self-governing and to help maintain the various cultures and ways of life. Eventually, however, the citizenship of black South Africans was revoked as they were now considered “citizens” of their new homeland. Approximately 13% of South African land was reserved for the creation of the homelands and was generally located in less desirable parts of the country.

Under the homeland system, the government claimed that discrimination on the basis of race was not taking place, rather “differentiation on the grounds of nationhood. . .granting to each nation self-determination and . . .separate development.” Unfortunately, many black South Africans were forcibly removed to their new “homeland,” in an area of the country they had never seen.

Colored and Asian people were also not allowed to live in white neighborhoods but didn’t have a “homeland.” Accordingly, townships were created outside of white cities and all Colored people were assigned to Colored townships and Asian people to Asian townships.

Eventually, international resistance to apartheid began to put pressure on the South African government. Several internal demonstrations resulted in a significant number of deaths which sparked outrage in the international community. In 1962, the United Nations passed a resolution condemning South African apartheid policies. The UN requested that their member states sever all political, fiscal and transportation ties as well as cultural, educational and sporting connections. Unfortunately, however, these sanctions were not mandatory for UN members and many did not oblige. In 1973, the UN declared apartheid a “crime against humanity.” By the late 80’s 25 nations had trade sanctions against South Africa.

Interestingly, international sports exerted influence against South Africa as well. Apartheid forbade multiracial sports so most international teams were unable to compete in South Africa. The International Olympic Committee banned South Africa’s participation in the Olympic games starting in 1964. South Africa was also forbidden from participating in international cricket after 1970. FIFA instituted a similar ban.

Throughout the 80’s, both internal resistance and external pressures were taxing the apartheid government which slowly began to revoke apartheid laws. For example, black South Africans were now allowed to live and own land in urban areas and educational spending was increased to one-seventh that of white children. More importantly, there was talk of the release of political prisoners (those arrested for resistance to apartheid laws).

Change finally came in 1990 when F.W. de Klerk ascended to the presidency of South Africa. He repealed all discriminatory laws, lifted the ban on anti-apartheid political parties, and released all political prisoners. Apartheid was formally dismantled through a series of negotiations from 1990 to 1993 culminating in the first elections open to all South Africans in April 1994.

With the end of the Apartheid government, a decision was made to create a new South African flag to represent the new democracy. The previous flag had been in use since 1928 and was loosely based on the Dutch flag with three smaller flags in the center: the Union Jack and the flags of two regions of South Africa, the Orange Free State and the Transvaal.

The new flag was unveiled on 27 April 1994 at the general election. The new flag is “a synopsis of principal elements of the country's history.” The different colors symbolize people of diverse backgrounds and the V or Y shape which demonstrates "the convergence of diverse elements within South African society, taking the road ahead in unity."

South Africa is certainly trying to move forward as one unified country. Reminders of this fact can be seen in many places, including at the cricket match I attended:

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Going Native

The Himba are a nomadic, pastoral tribe that live in northern Namibia and southern Angola. It is estimated that between 20,000 and 50,000 Himba people remain and continue to live according to the tribe’s traditions.

The Himba breed cattle and goats (and supplement this with hunting and gathering. They live in semi-permanent villages which relocate based on the seasons and availability of grasses for the livestock.

The homes and work shelters are primarily built of sticks surrounded by mud and clay. They have no running water or electricity and food is cooked over an open fire inside the hut.

The buildings in the villages surround a central livestock enclosure which is used for the animals at night to protect them from predators.

Traditionally, the Himba wear little clothing and what they wear is made by hand. Both sexes remained topless and loincloths made of animal skins were worn around the waist. Jewelry is made from grasses, shells, copper, and iron.

Nowadays western clothes are worn by many of the men while women and children continue to dress traditionally with the addition of cloth sarongs and glass beads (for jewelry).

Each morning Himba women undergo an elaborate ritual of cleansing and beautification. Once a girl passes into womanhood, she will never again bathe using water. However, each morning, the women burn herbs and incense which creates a fire and smoke that is used for a “steam bath.” The heat opens the pores and the fragrant smoke acts as a perfume. After the cleansing, the women cover their skin, from head to toe, in otjize. Otjize is a mixture of hand-churned butter fat and ochre (pigmented clay). This gives them an even, dark red skin-tone which symbolizes the dark red color of the earth and blood which is the source of all life. This skin color is not only considered beautiful in Himba society but also serves to protect them from the sun and insects.

Churning butter by hand to make otjize.

Woman applying otjize to her daughter.

In addition to applying the otjize to their entire bodies, every six weeks or so they need to style their hair in the traditional Himba fashion. First they braid their hair, then coat the braids in ash. After the ash, each braid is covered in the otjize mixture and animal hairs (usually from cow or goat tails) are tied to the end of each braid creating pompoms at the bottom of the hair. Finally, an elaborate leather headpiece is tied on top of the head.

Due to the harsh climate in which the Himba live, they have remained largely secluded from western influences and have managed to maintain much of their traditional lifestyle. However, in the mid-80’s after a drought that decimated their cattle population, the Himba way of life was in danger. Since that time, the Himba have experienced a resurgence. The new Namibian government (created in 1990) has prioritized the traditional people of Namibia and many Himba now live on nature conservancies that give them control of the wildlife on their lands. In addition, the Himba leaders realized that tourism can be a source of income for their people and can help as a way to finance the maintenance of their traditional way of life.

Of course the people in the village we visited have met westerners before. With the aid of a translator, they asked us many questions about where we were from, where we were traveling, and what we think of their culture.

Everyone loves to see their picture!

In this village, the head woman created an orphanage to care for orphaned Himba children from other villages. Accordingly, they open their village to tourists as a way to raise funds to help pay for the orphaned children.

I really enjoyed meeting these women and learning a bit about their culture.

The Himba taught me a lesson about happiness. We certainly don't need our modern "conveniences" to find it. And maybe all of our fancy toys make it just a bit tougher to achieve?

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Raindrops Aren't Falling On My Head

Namibia got its name from the Namib Desert, a coastal desert, which runs for over 1200 miles along the Atlantic Coast of southern Africa covering the entire west coast of Namibia and going as deep as 124 miles inland in parts. In total, the Namib Desert covers over 31,000 square miles of land in Namibia.

The Namib is the oldest desert in the world having had arid conditions for over 55 million years. Today, the western parts of the Namib have less than 2mm of rain per year. Even the “wettest” portions of the desert average less than 200mm (7.9 inches) annually.

The cool air of the Atlantic, mixed with warm air over the desert, frequently creates a thick fog -- the coastal regions have over 180 days of thick fog coverage per year. The strong winds that bring the fog over the desert, also create huge sand dunes in the “sand sea” which runs along the coast.

The dunes created are among the tallest in the world – some up to 1000 feet high!

I climbed 560 feet to the top of one of the dunes to watch the sunrise. It was a beautiful sight, but climbing in sand isn’t the easiest!

The temperatures in the Namib can be extreme. Along the coast, temperatures remain relatively stable, usually falling between 48-68°. Inland, however, the daytime temps can top 113° (at the same time, the sand temperature can top 160°!) and can fall below freezing during the night.

Surprisingly, the tiny amount of annual rainfall, along with the frequent fog being blown in from the Atlantic, sustains both plant and animal life in the Namib, all of which have adapted to live with very little water.

An Aloe Plant

One bush called “ostrich salad” can survive up to five years with no water, lying dormant until the rains come. The flowers on this bush close up when there is no water to have as little surface area as possible to avoid any evaporation.

However, when even one small drop of water hits the plant, it unfolds each leaf until it is completely open and ready for more moisture.

The acacia tree is another desert success story. Rather than many shallow roots, this tree develops one long “tap root” which grows incredibly deep seeking water below the surface. These roots average about 150 feet, but have been found up to 220 feet below the surface! As a result, it’s not uncommon to see a completely dry landscape, with one green acacia tree right in the middle.

Even when the land looks completely barren, there are seeds lingering below the surface just waiting for the next rain to fall. We saw evidence of this in one inland area of the desert. In 2009 there was 12mm of rain. In 2010, just 2mm fell. However, in 2011, 300mm fell! In 2011, lush green grasses sprouted up all over the desert floor. Prior to last year, this area hadn’t seen green grass since 1974! When we visited in 2012, the ground was once again dry, but evidence of the unusually tall grasses remained.

Photo from 2010 with very little ground cover.

Photo taken in 2012 with tall grasses that grew in 2011.

Shockingly a large number of animals live in the Namib as well. Most are spiders and insects, such as this tiny fellow:

The Armored Cricket -- Bigger than my big toe!

But some larger bird and mammal species have adapted to desert life as well.

Ostriches are Completely at Home in the Desert

The oryx, the national animal of Namibia, have adapted to raise their body temperature during the hot days.

These oryx are seeking shelter from the mid-day sun.

Vultures feeding on an animal that didn’t make it through the hot day.

Feral horses surviving on very little food and water.

Although we did see some plants and animals, what we didn’t see many of were humans.

The Namib Desert is almost completely uninhabited by people which helps to account for the low population density in Namibia. The landscape is just a bit too barren and unforgiving for easy settlement. But it’s certainly an incredible place to visit!

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