Close Encounters

The image of a tourist “on safari” in Africa usually involves someone wearing a khaki outfit (with a cool hat), sitting in an open-air truck and looking out at the savannah through high-powered binoculars. I have been that tourist (sadly minus the cool hat) in the past. But recent game-drives through the parks of the KwaZulu-Natal province of South Africa painted a very different picture!

It all started with a boat trip in the St. Lucia estuary – full of hippopotamuses!

The boat was able to get closer to a hippo than I’ve ever gotten! During the day, these animals stay in the water – it helps to keep their skin moist which keeps them cool in the hot midday African sun.

That night, while driving through the small town of St. Lucia, we saw these big guys eating their nightly supply of 150 pounds of grass – from the local lawns!

Less than 4 feet from my window!

Sorry, not too good at night shots!

Over the next two days we took our rental car through two parks: iSimangaliso and Hluhluwe-iMfolozi. Having your own car is quite a different experience from a game drive with a group. The freedom that comes with being your own guide is incredible! Personally, I think the animals liked me better in a small car – because many of them decided to get up close and personal!

Directly out the passenger window!

Certain animals, however, when they get too close, can make your heart pump a bit faster! The sheer size can be very humbling.

Highly endangered black rhinoceros with juvenile on the roadside

Some animals just look mean!

Others have both: the grumpy look and massive size!

This guy looked up from his meal at our passing car.

These guys (gals, actually) are called “king” for a reason! The largest cats in the world look even bigger when just outside the window!

Then there’s the “strength in numbers” theory. We were fortunate enough to see a pack of over two dozen African Wild Dogs – the most endangered carnivore in southern Africa. They hunt during the day -- so happy I was in a car while they were looking for food!

Although we saw all of these animals from less than 10 feet. . .nothing quite prepares you for encountering a 4400 pound animal and her juvenile in the middle of the road!

We were on a side road with no other cars around. While a car can feel safe and protected, this rhino was twice the size of my tiny 2200 pound Hyundai!

The white rhino can weigh up to 3000 pounds more than the black rhino, when you see them back to back, the size difference is incredible!

We spent over 20 minutes with these guys getting closer and closer while eating grass. . .seems the grass on the roadside tastes better than that in the bush!

Our incredible two days of animal sightings ended at night with the car being surrounded by a pack of hyenas – much bigger than I had anticipated! While driving through the bush in Africa, you can never forget that you’re being watched. . .

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What to Wear

As soon as you cross the border into Lesotho, you can’t help but notice that nearly every man, woman, and child is wearing a blanket over their clothes.

The “Basotho Blanket” is part of the national identity. There’s a Lesotho saying that you should always travel with a blanket and a knife – then you can sleep and eat no matter where you are. However, wearing the Basotho blanket is much more than just a practicality.

The story goes that in 1860, a trader came to Lesotho and gave the King, Moshoeshoe I, a blanket as a gift. The King wrapped it around his shoulders and wore it often in that manner. Eventually it became a fashion that the population started to emulate.

The temperatures in Lesotho can get quite low – prior to the blanket fashion, the people wore handmade animals skins over other clothes to keep warm.

Our friend, Pulani, wearing the buffalo skin wrap given to her grandmother upon the birth of her first child.

However, there were fewer and fewer wild animals in Lesotho so animal skins became scarce. At the same time, in the late 1800’s, weavers in Great Britain realized that the Lesotho market could be profitable and began to ship wool and cotton blankets to Lesotho.

The "Victoria" blanket – in honor of the English Monarch

One South African company, Frasier’s, was trading with the British weavers and created blankets with their name and label. Before long, the Frasier’s label became a status symbol in Lesotho.

This pattern symbolizes the fire that is essential to life in Lesotho.

The designs of these blankets are only produced with the permission of the royal family of Lesotho. A limited number of each design is produced each year. We were fortunate enough to learn about the history and many of the patterns from Pulani. Some examples:

The Seanamarena pattern, showcasing corn, a part of Basotho daily life.

The Morena pattern with playing cards to symbolize the influence of the west on Lesotho.

The original Basotho blankets are made of 87.5% wool and 12.5% cotton. The wool is not only warm, but doesn’t absorb water – ideal for the climate in Lesotho.

The company that now holds the license to produce and sell these blankets in Lesotho is Aranda.

Aranda also produces a line of blankets in several patterns made of acrylic called Khotso, which means “Peace” in Basotho.

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I'll Take a Pass

Lesotho is completely surrounded by South Africa and there are a number of border posts around the country to move between the two countries. In my opinion, the most beautiful (and adventurous) way to enter the country is via the Sani Pass.

For years, this pass was only used by locals on horses, mules, or donkeys. There was no road up this mountain, only a bridle path leading from the eastern mountain villages of Lesotho down the Drakensberg Mountains into the western part of the KwaZulu-Natal province of South Africa.

At the bottom of the path (on the South African side), a trading post, the Good Hope Store, was built in the early 1900’s. The Basotho people would make the trip (which could take up to 2 weeks), twice a year to trade their wool and mohair for clothing, food, blankets, and other essentials for life in a remote mountain village.

Remains of the Good Hope Store

In 1948, the pass was first successfully driven by a vehicle – a WWII surplus jeep. The British not wanting to be outdone, drove a Land Rover up the pass in 1952.  By 1955, the first rough road was built. The road has improved today, but is still only accessible with a 4x4 vehicle. In fact, the South African border patrol (located 8km from the top), will not allow non 4x4 vehicles to attempt to drive the road.

View of the Road from Below

In total, the road to Sani Pass consists of a 4250 foot elevation gain over about 12 miles.

Although the road begins with a gentle climb through the mountains, the final five miles account for 3280 feet of the elevation change!

The road consists of 27 hairpin turns, most during this steep final 5 miles.

One of these turns, “Reverse Corner,” requires most larger vehicles to do a three-point turn – on the edge of a mountain!

To make this dangerous road even more challenging, the road conditions are less than ideal – at times it was tough to distinguish between the road and rock slides!

In the end, we made it to the top in one piece and were rewarded by beautiful views and a warm welcome to Lesotho!

Best of all, what's at the top of the pass? The Highest Pub in Africa (over 9400 feet!).

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The Mountain Kingdom

In the middle of southern Africa, lies the small mountainous country of Lesotho. Lesotho is not only landlocked, but completely surrounded by another country -- South Africa.

Lesotho is the only country in the world that lies entirely above 1000 meters (3281 feet) in elevation. The lowest point in the country is over 4500 feet – the highest low point of any country! Over 75% of the country is mountains and accordingly, the country is rich in natural beauty!

Maletsunyane Falls -- the Highest Falls in Southern Africa

Lesotho has a population of just over 2 million with 75% of the population being rural. Wool and mohair are major exports in Lesotho and the mountainous countryside is peppered with sheep and goats being tended by shepherds.

Look closely -- all those white dots are animals!

The hillsides are also full of traditional stone homes –built by hand by each family.

Many Homes Have a Corral to Keep the Livestock at Night

The Basotho people make up 99.7% of the population and one language, Sesotho, is spoken throughout the country. (English is also an official language and is used in government and commerce) I believe that this cultural uniformity has saved Lesotho from many of the tribal disagreements that plague other African nations.

Traditional Lesotho Bread is Baked Over Hot Coals in an Iron Pot

Impressively, the literacy rate in Lesotho is 85% – one of the highest literacy rates in Africa. Lesotho spends over 12% of their GDP on education. Despite the high educational level of the population, 40% of the population lives below the poverty line making less than $1.25 per day.

As such, cars are not common in Lesotho (many of the roads aren’t car friendly) outside of the big cities. The main form of transport (apart from foot power) is on horseback. Lesotho is an equestrian country. Many villages have no roads nearby but are full of bridle paths criss-crossing the area.

The "Parking Lot" in the Village of Semonkong

Interestingly, due to the high elevation of the country, snowfall can be counted upon consistently in the winter. Accordingly, Lesotho is home to the only ski resort in Africa!

Lesotho has been called the "African Switzerland." However, despite the mountainous landscape, Lesotho remains purely African.

How do they do this? These buckets are full of water and none ever spills!

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