Vote Early, Vote Often

That’s the fun voting catch-phrase that’s been attributed to my home town: Chicago. Supposedly because of our corrupt politicians? I have to admit (and to those who know me well this won’t be a big surprise) that I don’t devote too much energy to elections and politics at home. But, I happen to be in Peru during their presidential elections and it’s tough to miss what's going on -- I’ve found the entire process fascinating.

The Peruvian General Elections were held on April 10, 2011, the day before I came to Peru. There were more than 10 candidates in this election and the law states that a candidate must win more than 50% of the vote to be elected president. Since that didn’t happen in April, the top two candidates were to have a run-off on June 5.

What fascinated me was how Peruvians support their candidates. They don’t just put a sign in the yard or a bumper sticker on the car, in some parts of the country, they actually paint their candidate’s name on their home. That’s commitment.

There are even ads for candidates on the sides of mountains:

So as I rode on buses through northern Peru back in April, I noticed what a big deal it was and decided to learn more about the process. It turns out elections in Peru are quite different from elections in the United States.

First, voting is mandatory for all Peruvians between the ages of 18 and 70. If they don’t vote, they are fined -- the amount of the fine is based on where they live. The fines aren’t huge by US standards (between $6 and $30 – more for Peruvians living abroad) but make a real difference for many Peruvians. Consequently, in the last presidential election, about 88% of Peruvians voted (compared to about 60% in the United States).

Elections are always held on Sundays to make voting easier for many people. Interestingly, they don’t have absentee ballots, all votes must be cast in person on election day. For Peruvians living abroad, this can be challenging. There are polling stations in many big cities but those living outside of big cities must travel to the nearest polling station. For example, there is a polling station on the north side of Chicago which serves all of Illinois, Wisconsin, Iowa, Indiana, and Missouri. That can be more than 15 hours of driving for some people! And in the western United States, the polling station in Salt Lake City, Utah serves all of Utah, Idaho, and Montana!

The most fascinating fact for me is that it is illegal to sell alcohol in stores or restaurants for the two days before the election and the day of the election throughout Peru. They want to ensure that everyone votes with a clear head and that tempers are kept in control on election day. While I understand the reasons for this law, I can’t imagine a similar law in the United States! Forget riots on election day, there would be riots when people couldn’t order a drink!

Then, several days before the election, I accidentally found myself in the middle of it all when I was having dinner. I was eating on a balcony overlooking the main plaza when sirens and lots of vehicles approached. Then a crowd gathered.

Then signs started appearing for one of the candidates.

I asked my waiter if one of the candidates was staying in the hotel attached to my restaurant. He not only confirmed that he was, but even told me his room number! (I’m pretty sure security wouldn’t let that happen in the US) The crowd started cheering and there he was standing in the bed of a pick-up truck just 10 feet below me!

And while I’m not a political person, I was excited to see the next President of Peru up close and personal! Viva Peru!

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Patience is a Virtue!

I came to South America with a very basic “tourist” knowledge of the Spanish language. I knew how to say “hi” and “good-bye” as well as “yes” and “no” (an easy one since it’s the same word) and “please” and “thank you.”

I also knew the essentials: “where’s the bathroom?” “check, please!”, “beach,” “wine,” “swimming pool,” and “beer.” Beyond that, I could say some other words, but I was far from making proper sentences!

In the past few months in South America, I’m happy to say that I’ve come a long way. I can ask lots of questions and nearly always understand the answers! I can even sometimes have conversations. Progress!

I have so much appreciation for what the (very patient) people of South America have had to put up with! I’m constantly asking people to repeat themselves, usually “mas despacio, por favor” (slower, please). And they usually do. And with a smile no less! And I’ve never felt that anyone has looked at me like I’m an idiot because I can’t speak their language. 

I’m sad to say that experiences in the United States are often different. Many Americans get completely frustrated and impatient when faced with a non-English-speaker fumbling their way through our language. Eye rolls are sometimes involved as is repeating the sentence over-and-over while increasing the volume each time.

My point? I have two: 

First, I have to send out a HUGE thank you to the people of South America. They have patiently helped me to get where I am and have tolerated my conversations despite them being completely devoid of any verbs in the past-tense. (I just can’t seem to master anything but present tense)

And secondly, I hope that my fellow Americans will lend a hand to travelers in the United States trying to master English. Don't assume that someone saying "I go from New York last week" is an idiot -- give them the benefit of the doubt and speak a little slower. And do it with a smile!

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The Floating City

The reason that humans are one of the most prolific species on earth is our adaptability – at least that’s what they said in my Anthro class. People have used various means to adapt to be able to live in nearly every climate on Earth. Human ingenuity never ceases to amaze me. . .

Next to Iquitos, on the Amazon River in northern Peru, is the floating city of Belen.

There is a 30 foot difference in the waterline on the Amazon between the rainy season (roughly February to July) and the dry season. In order to build homes in these conditions, many of the homes in Belen are built on stilts to cope with the variable water level.

Not all of the homes in Belen are built over the water, some are built on land. But all of these homes (and stores) are two stories high. In the rainy season, the first floor floods entirely and the families move all of their belongings upstairs until the water recedes.

The majority of the homes, however, are built on rafts of balsa wood (which floats) and tied to poles in the water or to other homes to keep them from floating away. Hundreds of homes float during the wet season and rest on dry land during the dry season, others are floating year round.

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Strike a Pose

In the mid-90’s an anthropologist from Lima, Peru set off on a boat down the Amazon River in hopes of contacting each of the tribes that live along the river and memorializing them in a unique way.

During his six-month trip, he traveled through all four countries along the Amazon: Brazil, Venezuela, Colombia, and Peru. When he would encounter a new tribe, he would talk to the chief and explain his mission, and, in most cases, he was successful.

His mission? To make a lifesize mold of one member of each tribe in traditional dress – often with weapons or ceremonial objects. The results of his work are on display in the Amazon Museum in Iquitos, Peru – over eighty fiberglass sculptures of the largest indigenous Amazonian tribes.

There are men, women, and children in the collection. Some are in full ceremonial dress. Some are chiefs with very impressive jewelry and headdresses, others are common people out collecting food for the tribe.

In order to make the molds, the subject was completely covered in wet fabric and had to stand completely still for over an hour while the glue dried. Then the molds were cut into large parts and later reassembled in his workshop.

Sometimes relatives would cry during the process, not understanding that the person was only temporarily covered and would be completely unharmed an hour later.

What an interesting idea and a fascinating way to interact with these various indigenous cultures! Truly a treasure for future generations to enjoy. . .

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